Historical textile dyeing with Genista tinctoria L.: a comprehensive study by UPLC-MS/MS analysis

L G Troalen; A S Phillips; D A Peggie; P E Barran; A N Hulme

doi:10.1039/C4AY01509F

Historical textile dyeing with Genista tinctoria L.: a comprehensive study by UPLC-MS/MS analysis

L G Troalen, A S Phillips, D A Peggie, P E Barran, A N Hulme

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

Abstract

Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and historical yarns dyed with this species. Several so far unreported dye components that could assist with the identification of this dye source, were characterised by MS/MS. Furthermore, the effect of photo-degradation and textile preparation techniques (such as over-dyeing) on the dye fingerprint was investigated and the results correlated with those obtained from historical samples from the Burrell and Bodleian collections, UK.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	8915-8923
Number of pages	9
Journal	Analytical Methods
Volume	6
Issue number	22
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1039/C4AY01509F
Publication status	Published - 2014

Keywords

mass-spectrometry
in-vitro
flavonoids
isoflavonoids
identification
fragmentation
constituents
leguminosae
stability
daidzein

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abstract = "Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and historical yarns dyed with this species. Several so far unreported dye components that could assist with the identification of this dye source, were characterised by MS/MS. Furthermore, the effect of photo-degradation and textile preparation techniques (such as over-dyeing) on the dye fingerprint was investigated and the results correlated with those obtained from historical samples from the Burrell and Bodleian collections, UK.",

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AU - Phillips, A S

AU - Peggie, D A

AU - Barran, P E

AU - Hulme, A N

N1 - As4jt Times Cited:0 Cited References Count:35

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N2 - Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and historical yarns dyed with this species. Several so far unreported dye components that could assist with the identification of this dye source, were characterised by MS/MS. Furthermore, the effect of photo-degradation and textile preparation techniques (such as over-dyeing) on the dye fingerprint was investigated and the results correlated with those obtained from historical samples from the Burrell and Bodleian collections, UK.

AB - Polyphenolic components from Genista species have been well characterised because of their potential as antioxidants and as therapeutic leads; however, the identification of dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria L.) in historical textiles has been the subject of only limited studies. This paper presents a comprehensive UPLC-PDA MS/MS study of reference and historical yarns dyed with this species. Several so far unreported dye components that could assist with the identification of this dye source, were characterised by MS/MS. Furthermore, the effect of photo-degradation and textile preparation techniques (such as over-dyeing) on the dye fingerprint was investigated and the results correlated with those obtained from historical samples from the Burrell and Bodleian collections, UK.

KW - mass-spectrometry

KW - in-vitro

KW - flavonoids

KW - isoflavonoids

KW - identification

KW - fragmentation

KW - constituents

KW - leguminosae

KW - stability

KW - daidzein

U2 - 10.1039/C4AY01509F

DO - 10.1039/C4AY01509F

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JO - Analytical Methods

JF - Analytical Methods

IS - 22

ER -

Historical textile dyeing with Genista tinctoria L.: a comprehensive study by UPLC-MS/MS analysis

Abstract

Keywords

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