Surf zone wave overtopping a trapezoidal structure: 1-D modelling and PIV comparison

Peter K. Stansby, Tong Feng

    Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

    Abstract

    Experiments have been undertaken on surf zone waves, with a surf similarity parameter of about 0.3, overtopping a trapezoidal obstacle with 1:2 side slopes, on a beach of 1:20 slope. Particle image velocimetry (PIV) investigation has shown complex vortical structures resulting from shoreward propagating bores interacting/colliding with bores partially reflected from the obstacle, before overtopping the obstacle. A 1-D depth-averaged shallow-water model captures qualitatively much of the wave dynamics. However, the marked turbulent air entrainment in the collision zone appears significant in raising mean water level relative to the model and causing a phase lag in the model relative to the experiment. Peak overtopping levels are overpredicted by about 100% with this phase lag. © 2004 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
    Original languageEnglish
    Pages (from-to)483-500
    Number of pages17
    JournalCoastal Engineering
    Volume51
    Issue number5-6
    DOIs
    Publication statusPublished - Aug 2004

    Keywords

    • Particle-image velocimetry
    • Sea defence
    • Shallow-water model
    • Surf zone
    • Waves

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