This research focuses on the enhancement of trouser pattern construction through the utilisation of three-dimensional (3D) body scanning. It considers the lower body shape-pattern-garment relationship and the curves that are required to suitably develop trousers from 3D body scans. 3D body scanning offers more anthropometric data on the body than had been previously possible to collect from traditional methods of measurement. However, there exist differences between these two methods of measurement (Kuzmichev et al., 2017) and limitations within the existing 3D body scanning process at certain locations of the body; namely the armhole curve, the armscye, the bust, the neck curve and the crotch. These limitations include missing or inaccurate co-ordinates in the measurements of the parameters for the body and the pattern. This impacts majorly on the garment. This research began with analysis of eighteen methods of pattern construction for trousers using measurements from a 3D body scanner and drafting manual and CAD patterns in Lectra Modaris. The data outputs from this were then entered into Excel for analysis and comparison and to see if there were any inconsistencies for ease or arc definition for different morphologies. It was noticed that during the pattern making process traditional linear Euclidian methods of measurement were used, whereas the body is shaped with curves, convex or concave, and these seem not to be given their importance in the pattern construction process within a 3D environment. This necessitated an investigation into a new approach using hybrid calculations using Euclidian and non-Euclidian geometry to incorporate and calculate the curves in 3D. It also incorporated the use of Lectra, CAD, Adobe Design, Clo3D Tableau, Python. The data extracted from Excel formed the basis of the Statistical Analyses and comparative processes. The data was then used to classify bodies by shape as opposed to just measurements. The increased adoption of technology and environmental issues caused by fast fashion have propelled the concept of mass customisation to the fore. Greater precision in 3D scan data which relates directly to the lower body shape has huge implications for customer satisfaction and the garment manufacturing industry.
- Anthropometrics
- Pattern Engineering
- Machine Learning
- Landmarks
- 3D Body Scanning
- Pattern Construction
- Lower Body Shapes
- Hybrid calculation of measurements
"THE DEVELOPMENT OF PATTERN CONSTRUCTION FOR WOMEN'S TROUSERS USING 3D BODY SCANNING TECHNOLOGY"
Alrushaydan, T. (Author). 1 Aug 2024
Student thesis: Phd